There are a few ups and downs between here and cockermouth but nothing too serious. If you are taking your time Cockermouth is an absolute must as a stop-off.

It lies just outside the boundary of the Lake District National Park and has long held a fascination for writers, poets and artists. It is the birthplace of William and Dorothy Wordsworth and one of the finest buildings in Cockermouth is Wordsworth House, the Lakeland poet's family home, now in the care of the National Trust.

Two other famous locals came from Eaglesfield, a mile from the town's centre and were born within two years of each other: Fletcher Christian, the man who led the mutiny on 'The Bounty' was born in 1764 and attended the same school as Wordsworth; and two years later John Dalton, who was one of the most brilliant scientists of his age, and was the originator of the atomic theory.

Cockermouth Castle was built in teh 13th century but little of that remains thanks to Robert the Bruce.

The road from Cockermouth to Workington follows the course of the Derwent via Papcastle, following the C2C in reverse, keeping the river on your left. About 4km beyond Great Broughton is Camerton. At the Black Tom climb up to the right and at the old stone bridge hang a left onto the cycle track that takes you to Workington via Seaton.

The town itself: European funding has been used to help restore this fine working town and there are high hopes that its resurgence will bring with it tourism and a new lease of life, as has happened in Whitehaven and Maryport, further up the coast. Work on the town centre has just finished, after two years of mayhem and now there are new shops and a fine new silver municipal clock. There are some splendid examples of Georgian architecture and some powerful industrial heritage.

18. Workington		Back to
Mrs Caroline Nelson		Morven House Hotel, Siddick Road, Workington, Cumbria CA14 1LE
Telephone		01900 602118
Website		www.morvenguesthouse.com
E		cnelsonmorven@aol.com
Rooms		2D, 6T
B&B		£28-£34
Packed Lunch		£4.50
Evening meal		£10-£12
Distance from C2C		On route
VisitBritain 3 stars		Pub nearby

"A relaxed, informal atmosphere, an ideal stopover for C2C /Reivers participants near start. Car park and secure cycle storage."

Susan and Fred Dahl		Armidale Cottages, 29 High Seaton, CA14 1PD
Tel		01900 63704
Web		www.armidalecottages.co.uk
Email		armidalecotts@hotmail.com
Rooms		2D
B&B		£28-£35
Nearest pub		The Coachman, 5 minutes walk
Packed Lunch		On request
Local inspection		Commended

Just a few hundred yards from the track and five minutes from the start/finish, Armidale is set in half an acre of land with a small orchard. The cottage has wood burning stoves in the lounge and dining room and is centrally heated throughout. There are slate floors in the lounge and hall with wood floors in the dining room and bedroom. Great breakfast and top end accommodation. Credit cards now accepted. Also handy for the Hadrian Way.

Workington is an ancient market and industrial town at the mouth of the River Derwent. Parts of it date back to Roman times. But it was not until the 18th century, with the exploitation of local iron ore and coal that Workington expanded to become a major industrial town and port. In this respect its growth reflects that of its neighbour, Whitehaven, twelve kilometres down the coast.

Iron and steel manufacture have always been part of Workington's raison d'etre, and it was here that Henry Bessemer first introduced his revolutionary steel making process. In recent years, with the decline of the steel industry and coal mining, the town has diversified into other forms of industry.

The advantage of starting here is that the opening leg of the journey is 11km shorter, has gentler gradients and passes through the beautiful market town of Cockermouth. It is also close to, and goes through, Camerton, where the church sits prettily on the banks of the Derwent and the splendidly named Black Tom Inn beckons passers-by.

It also has some nice churches. The parish church of St Michael's has stood on its present site since the 7th century, although the 12th century Norman church was replaced in 1770 by a larger building. Sadly this was severely damaged by fire in 1994, but has sinceundergone a major rebuilding programme. St John's Church was built in 1823 to commemorate the battle of Waterloo, to a design by Thomas Hardwick. It is built of local sandstone, and bears some resemblance to Inigo Jones' St. Paul's Church in Covent Garden, London.

Workington Tourist Information Centre: 01900 606699

PLACES OF INTEREST

The Helena Thompson Museum was bequeathed to the people of Workington by the eponymous Miss Thompson, a local philanthropist, in 1940. It houses displays of pottery, silver, glass, and furniture dating from Georgian times, as well as the social and industrial history of Workington and the surrounding area.

Workington Hall is built around a pele tower dating from the 14th century, and was once one of the finest Manor houses in the region. This striking ruin, once owned by the Curwen family, Lords of the Manor of Workington, gave shelter to Mary Queen of Scots on her last flight from Scotland before her imprisonment and execution. Apparently it is haunted by Henry Curwen.

Jane Pit is a 19th century coal mine built by Henry Curwen, and the remains of this can be seen at Mossbay.

WHERE TO EAT

Impressions, 173 Vulcans Lane: traditional English food 01900 605 446

Super Fish, 20 Pow St: sit-in or takeaway 01900 604 916

Blue Dolphin, 1 Lismore Pl: sit-in or t-away 01900 604164

The Carnegie Colours, Finkle St: home-cooking 01900 605743

Treats, 26 Finkle St: good cafe 01900 871752

The Old Townhouse, Portland Sq: upmarket 01900 871332

CYCLE SHOPS

Bike Bank 18-20 Market Place 01900 603 337

Halfords, Derwent Howe Retail Park 01900 601635