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Tynemouth & Whitley Bay The End of the Road
There are 60s high rise flats and men in cloth caps walking whippets and tending pigeon lotts. The route (marked C2C and 72) leads continuously along the north bank, past the Segedunum Roman Fort, to the end of the Hadrian's Wall National Trail. WALLSEND is ideal for the Hadrian's Wall experience. The fort at Segedunum was recently brought back to life at a cost of £9 million, and displays the only Roman bath-house in Britain. A couple of miles down river on the opposite bank sits Jarrow, home of the Venerable Bede, and the Bede's World Museum. It was also the starting point for the Jarrow March. Two hundred strikers descended upon London in 1936 and made one of the most striking political statements in British working class history. As you approach the Royal Quays North Sea Ferry Terminus make sure you follow the signs (easily missed) and go to the LEFT of the Wet `n' Wild water centre (you can't miss it - the giant flume tubes look like part of some space-age factory). Follow the path through landscaped public gardens in which an incongruous cluster of wooden sea groynes stand, as if awaiting tidal erosion. Turn lett just beyond them, by a faded waysign - do not head back in the direction of the Amsterdam and Bergen ferry terminal - and go through the modern housing estate. To the right, pleasure cratt and fishing boats should be bobbing around at their moorings. Keep following the C2C, Route 72 and Route 10 signs (they are clustered together) and you will find yourself passing through another modern housing estate. You are now in North Shields, erstwhile home of comedian Stan Laurel. Following the signs, descend a steep flight of stone steps to the fish quays. You will arrive outside a pub called the Chain Locker, opposite the ferry terminus to South Shields. The view across the Tyne on a good day is worth a pause. You can see, in the far distance, the elegant 19th century façade of the clock tower of South Shields town hall. Cafes, stores and splendid fish & chip restaurants run the length of the North Shields Quays. This is where Danish and Polish sailors used to integrate vigorously with the local community at a den of iniquity called the Infamous Jungle, now known as the Collingwood Buildings. You soon round the point where the North Sea meets the Tyne. Welcome to Tynemouth. You pass the 11th century Priory and Castle, and the handsome statue of the man who really won the Battle of Trafalgar in 1805, Admiral Lord Collingwood. Nelson's unassuming and undersung deputy single-handedly took on five French warships for a full hour before the rest of the English fleet caught up. He assumed command upon Nelson's death half-way through the battle, and is Tynemouth's most famous son. This is a stylish little haven centred upon Front St, a handsome wide avenue built for eating, drinking and promenading. The village is a conservation area of architectural gems from the 18th and 19th centuries. The stretch of shore from here, through Cullercoats and up to Whitley Bay, is known as Newcastle's Côte d'Azur. You will note that there is cycle parking in Tynemouth and Whitley Bay, just over a mile up the coast. This is where you finish, though there is no obvious place to crack a bottle of Evian Water. No matter. It is a delightful spot and there is bags of accommodation in Whitley Bay, just round the corner (plus a couple of B&Bs in Tynemouth itself). Don't forget to dip your front wheel in the water. PLACES TO EAT Sidneys, Percy Park Rd.Now features in Michelin. 0191 257 8500 Giorgio's Pizzeria & Restaurant, Front St. 0191 257 3758 Marshall's Fryery at the Priory, Front St. 0191 257 2435 The Gate of India, 40 Front St. 0191 258 3453 Gibraltar Rock, Carvery East St. 0191 258 5655 CELEBRATING THE END There are several good pubs in Tynemouth. Here are three recommendations. Tynemouth Lodge Hotel, Tynemouth Rd, a real locals pub frequented by the lifeboatmen. Great beers and otten very busy. It's at the top of that steep climb out of the North Shields fish quays, on the edge of Tynemouth. Worth tracking back if you have got the energy. Fitzpatricks, Front Street, is a handsome establishment. It is one of eight pubs in the small town. Has a changing selection of hand-pulled ales. Food served. The Turks Head, Front St., otherwise known as the Stuffed Dog because of Willie the Scottish collie, whose 130 year old taxidermised remains sit in a glass box looking at the bar. Willie came down from the Scottish Borders with a herd of sheep and a shepherd, but somehow got separated from them and spent the rest of his life waiting and pining in Tynemouth for his lost master. A tale of epic proportions told in detail on a plaque. Good Courage Directors, regular guest ales. Food served all day. Whitley Bay and Tynemouth adjoin each other so are equally suitable for that final night. It is impossible not to notice that this resort, with its Pleasure Dome, Spanish City and seaside villas, is geared up for tourism and little else. Every other building offers food, drink or accommodation - or all three. Whitley Bay is a striking seaside resort, and in the past was a thriving holiday resort for tourists. It is currently attempting to rediscover its former glory, when smart Geordies would jockey for position on Newcastle Coast's promenade. It is impossible not to notice that this resort, with its Pleasure Dome, Spanish City and seaside villas, is geared up for tourism and little else. Every other building offers food, drink or accommodation - or all three. Whitley Bay is a striking seaside resort, and in the past was a thriving holiday resort for tourists. It is currently attempting to rediscover its former glory, when smart Geordies would jockey for position on Newcastle Coast's promenade. From here it is a fairly straightforward four mile trundle up to Seaton Sluice along the pavement-cycleway, though you will notice an absence of signposting. Follow the path along Whitley Sands before taking the cycle path running alongside the A193 dual carriageway. Atter half a mile the road turns sharp lett, but you go right, taking the track down to the nature reserve. You will see St Mary's Lighthouse and its causeway. PUBS Fitzgeralds. Half-timbered Victorian pub. Good food and drink and a lively night spot. Briar Dene. `A former tollhouse with a well-earned reputation for good quality beer and food,' according to the Good Beer Guide (CAMRA Books: £12.99). It overlooks St Mary's lighthouse and the sea. Serves good food. Rockcliffe Arms Attractive one-roomed pub with stained-glass, and two distinct drinking areas separated by a partition. Proper `locals' pub. EATING There are dozens of good Indian restaurants, so it seems invidious to single any particular ones out. Indeed there are dozens of eateries covering a whole gamut of international cuisine. |
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