HOTELS

There are plenty of hotels and guest houses. The Jesmond area, just north of the centre, is full of places to stay and lively night spots. If you're overnighting in the city, there are hotels near the waterfront, down on the fashionable Quayside. For a full list of hotels, call the Tourist Information Centre on T:+44 (0)191 277 8000 or get hold of the Newcastle Gateshead Accommodation Guide ngi@ngi.org.uk by calling the Newcastle Gateshead Initiative on T:+44 (0)191 243 8800.

When in Tyneside, many like to stay around the Quayside. It is close to Central Station where the ride officially starts (or ends), so I have concentrated my entries in this area. The atmosphere is vibrant and the pubs and restaurants are among the best in town; however the hotels, as in most city centres, can be expensive. An alternative finishing (or starting)starting point is Tynemouth, on the end of the estuary. But who would miss the wonders of cycling down the historic Tyne?

1. Newcastle		Back to
Kenilworth Hotel		44 Osborne Rd, Jesmond
T		0191 281 8111
Rooms		12
B&B		£38

Family business run by keen cyclist.

The George Hotel		88 Osborne Rd, Jesmond
Telephone		0191 281 4442/2943
Rooms		16
B&B		From £35

Small family run concern.

Travel Lodge		4 Forster St, Quayside
Telephone		0191 261 5432
Rooms		120
B&B		£59.95

Family room will sleep three if the double bed is shared.

Ever since the Romans arrived 2,000 years ago Newcastle has been a hub of trading activity. The town grew up around Pons Aelius, a Roman fortification about 10 miles inland from the North Sea. For the last 800 years a booming trade in wool, leather and coal have brought the city prosperity.

Now it's one of the most 'happening' places in northern Europe. A magnet for shoppers and clubbers, diners and drinkers, it boasts some of Britain's finest architecture and has gone through a cultural Renaissance. Recent restoration projects have included Norman fortifications, 16th century merchant houses and the great neo-classical designs of Grainger Town.

This later project unveiled what many believe to be the finest examples of Georgian architecture in Britain. Not for nothing was Newcastle dubbed the 'city of palaces' when it was completed in 1842. There are now 260 listed buildings.

There are also art galleries, museums and concert venues, among them the magnificent Baltic Centre for Contemporary Art on the banks of the Tyne. Of 1930s Art Deco design, the redesignation of this former grain warehouse is typical of the vision and flare that has gone into the area's regeneration.

Newcastle and Gateshead, it's neighbour on the south bank of the Tyne, have been voted England's best short break destination. The two towns also teamed up to contend for the European Capital of Culture in 2008, a link symbolised by the arcing strand of the new Gateshead Millennium Bridge across the Tyne. Sadly for Newcastle, the gong went to a town arguably in greater need of culture: Liverpool.

The emergence of restaurants, bars and clubs has gone hand in hand with other developments to provide a truly diverse range of extra-curricular activities. In short, it is the perfect place to start this cycling Odyssey, and we would recommend stopping here overnight and sampling its urban delights before setting off up the banks of the Tyne in search of the Northumberland coast.

PLACES OF INTEREST

Castle Keep , Castle Garth, St Nicholas St T:+44 (0)191 232 7938 Built by Henry II between 1168-78 on the site of the so-called New Castle, built in 1080 by William the Conqueror's son, Robert Curthose. It was after this edifice that the town was named. The New Castle itself was constructed on the site of the Roman Pons Aelius (Bridge of Hadrian). Admission: £1.50, 50p concessions.

BALTIC The Centre for Contemporary Art , Gateshead Quays T:+44 (0)191 478 1810 Opened in July 2002, BALTIC is the major new centre for contemporary visual art and stands grandly above the water on the south bank. Five galleries and more than 3,000 square metres. It is housed in an old grain store, part of the old Baltic Flour Mills.

The Sage Gateshead, opened 2005. Sir Norman Foster's contribution to the Geordie quayside, a music complex catering for classical, folk, jazz, brass and choral. This is the home of the Northern Sinfonia.Ticket Office - 0191 443 4661. Switchboard - 0191 443 4666. Music Education Centre Reception - 0191 443 4627. Brasserie Bookings - 0191 443 4654. Coats Desk - 0191 443 4634.Fax - 0191 443 4551. www.thesagegateshead.org

Gateshead Millennium Bridge

Takes walkers and cyclists from Newcastle's Quayside across to Gateshead Quays and Baltic Square and the Baltic contemporary art gallery. The bridge opens and closes like a giant eyelid, allowing shipping to pass. Spectacularly lit at night, like many who inhabit these once louche purlieus. Great viewed at night.

Grainger Town - a rejuvenated architectural treasure trove with some of Britain's greatest examples of Georgian and Victorian architecture, plus many of the city's top shops.

Chinatown - around Stowell St. Restaurant standard is good and prices reasonable. Exotic supermarkets and craft shops.

There are plenty of hotels and guest houses. The Jesmond area, just north of the centre, is full of places to stay and lively night spots. If you're overnighting in the city, there are hotels near the waterfront, down on the fashionable Quayside. For a full list of hotels, call the Tourist Information Centre on T:+44 (0)191 277 8000 or get hold of the Newcastle Gateshead Accommodation Guide ngi@ngi.org.uk by calling the Newcastle Gateshead Initiative on T:+44 (0)191 243 8800.

When in Tyneside, many like to stay around the Quayside. It is close to Central Station where the ride officially starts (or ends), so I have concentrated my entries in this area. The atmosphere is vibrant and the pubs and restaurants are among the best in town; however the hotels, as in most city centres, can be expensive. An alternative starting point is Tynemouth, on the end of the estuary. But who would miss the wonders of cycling down the historic Tyne?

PUBS

Crown Posada, The Side. T:+44 (0)191 232 1269 Known locally as The Coffi n because it is long and narrow, this is probably the city's best pub. There's no TV, and any music comes either from an old gramophone or the mouths of revellers. There are stained-glass windows, interesting ceilings, wood-clad walls and six excellent ales. Legend has it that the pub was bought by a Spanish sea captain for his mistress.

Bridge Hotel, Castle Square. T:+44 (0)191 232 6400 Big pub looking across at the castle keep. Nestles into the side of the mighty high level bridge. Patio garden at the rear encircled by the old town wall affords great views of the river.

The Old George Inn, Cloth Market. T:+44 (0)191 269 3061. One of the 'Toon's' oldest establishments, you reach it down a cobbled back alley. Despite being in the middle of the frantic Bigg Market, where every night is like New Year's Eve in other towns, it is a grownup drinking spot.

Duke of Wellington, High Bridge. T:+44 (0)191 261 8852 This pub is a one-room wonder, stocking lots of fast changing ales from all over the country. Used to be run by a 50-stone landlord, one of the biggest men in the world, whose bulk would have barred him from entering the Posada.

Bodega, 125 Westgate Road. T:+44 (0)191 221 1552 According to the Good Beer Guide the highlight of this pub, apart from the range of real ales, is the original twin glass ceiling domes. The pub is a hit with the city's culturati as it stands next to the Tyne Theatre and Opera House. It is a great melting pot as it is also popular with football fans.

Hotspur , 103 Percy Street. T:+44 (0)191 232 4352 Popular, single-roomed, city centre pub with four guest ales close to the shopping centre. Busy, and busier still when United are on telly.

RESTAURANTS

INDIAN

Vujon, 29 Queen St. T:+44 (0)191 221 0601 Another classy curry joint. It is next door to Asha Raval (0191 232 7799) which also comes highly rated in Asian circles.

CHINESE

Lau's Buffet King, 44-50 Stowell St. T:+44 (0)191 261 8868 If you want to pack in the protein for the following day's ride, this is the place. It's a hugely popular all-you-can-eat' that seats 300.

King Neptune, 34-36 Stowell St. T:+44 (0)191 261 6657 Award winning food. Sumptuous surroundings. You can't go too far wrong anywhere in Stowell St.

ITALIAN

La Riveria, Gateshead Quays. T:+44 (0)191 477 7070 Recent addition to the Gateshead side of the Tyne. Great location and wide choice of Italianate cooking. Marco Polo, 33 Dean St. T:+44 (0)191 232 5533 Friendly, efficient service. Traditional fare, dim lighting. Marco's is an institution.

Uno's, 18 Sandhill, Quayside. T:+44 (0)191 261 5264 Offers some cheap and cheerful choices. Popular with celebrities.

MODERN

Café 21, 19-21 Queen St, Quayside. T:+44 (0)191 222 0755 Simply one of the best restaurants in the north east, you need to book well in advance.

Amer's, 34 Osbourne Rd, Jesmond. T: +44 (0)191 281 5377. Top place serving good and inexpensive grub means you HAVE to book. Cosy and stylish modern cooking in a trendy spot.

Brasserie Black Door, The Biscuit Factory, 16 Stoddart St. T:+44 (0)191 260 5411. Between Quayside and Jesmond in a 1930s converted factory - the sort of place that is now as voguish as it was hitherto ghastly. Fine cooking in a Modern Art gallery.

Quay 35, 35 The Side, Quayside. T:+44 (0)191 232 3848 Early evening 2-course special for £11 or £12. Cosy spot, Quay 35 has a good selection of fish, meat and vegetarian options.

WORLD FOOD

Kublai Khan, The Side, Quayside. T:+44 (0)191 221 1596 Only place in the area to do Mongolian food. Served buffet style, you select your ingredients and a Mongol Chinese emperor will cook it for you.

Heartbreak Soup, Quayside. T:+44 (0)191 222 1701 Latin American/Mexican/ Central American fare. Eclectic and vibey.