Kelso

This town is worth the detour. Its abbey, once the biggest, is now the least intact of all the great four Border ruins. Founded in 1128 by David I, it was attacked and burned three times by Henry VIII's men during the 1540s, and on the last occasion in 1545, the Earl of Hertford butchered 100 men and 12 monks, leaving behind the ruin you see today. What is left looks modest in size, but plans stored in the Vatican Library show that this is only the extreme west end of a very large edifice.

Kelso was described by Sir Walter Scott as the most beautiful, if not the most romantic, 'village' in the whole of Scotland. There is a Continental-looking cobbled market square and some handsome Georgian and Victorian architecture.

The town's main claim to fame, apart from the astronomical cost of salmon fishing on the pool where the river Teviot flows into the Tweed, is Floors Castle, Britain's largest inhabited mansion. Home of the Dukes of Roxburghe, it was originally designed nearly 300 years ago by Vanbrugh and was built by William Adam in 1721. Golden gates were later added and prisoners from the Napoleonic wars helped build the theatre and imposing walls which surround the estate.

Floors Castle and gardens, Roxburghe Estates Office, Kelso TD5 7SF (T: 01573 223333 www.floorscastle.com Adults £6.50, senior £5.50).

Oscar's Wine Bar & Restaurant(35-37 Horsemarket, Kelso TD5 7HE T: 01573 224008)is just around the corner from the main piazza and successfully combines flavours of the Med with local produce. The chef-patronne changes the menu daily and makes good use of seafood, not to mention Borders and Angus meat. Open daily 5-late.

There's also the Ednam House Hotel, a perfect period piece of Edwardiana on the banks of Britain's finest fishing river. Blazing log fires, old Hardy rods, stuffed salmon and the sort of quiet that permits the clocks to tick audibly.

To get out of Kelso, do not retrace your tracks. Do not cross the river; just take the A6089, signposted Gordon and Edinburgh. Go up the hill then follow the wall of Floors estate until you get to the B6397, where you go left. Continue to Makerstoun, where you go sharp right, dog-legging until you get to the B6404, where you go left. After 4km, take the right turn up to Clintmains. Of all the places on the route Clint Lodge has possibly the best views. And some very fine cooking.

19. Kelso		Back to
David Corry		The Hermitage, Hermitage Lane, Sheddon Park Rd, TD5 7AN
Telephone		01573 229090
Website		www.thehermitagebedandbreakfast.com
Email		corry_david@hotmail.com
Rooms		1D, 2T
B&B		£30-£50
VisitScotland		3-star

Fine Georgian house with comfortable period furnishings. Quiet location within easy walking distance of the town centre.