Innerleithen...and the climb to Edinburgh

Just down the road is this small former spa town. The spring is known as St Ronan's Well (also the title of a Scott novel), and was briefly fabled for its healing qualities, producing a sulphurous brew similar to the baths of Harrogate. Until the spa's discovery, the place was an even tinier hamlet than Traquair.

According to the Imperial Gazetteer of Scotland (1868): "The well was a trivial, repulsive-looking fountain, bubbling up amidst a little marsh...but with remarkable suddenness, and in a way nearly unaccountable, became celebritous among valetudinarians of all classes in Edinburgh and throughout the south of Scotland. The well, in the decorations built over and around it, in the character assigned it by popular opinion, and in the influence it exerted on the village in its vicinity, now rose, as if by magic, from the status of a watery hole in a quagmire, to that of an infant competitor with the proud spas of England. In 1824, the publication of Sir Walter Scott's tale of St. Ronan's Well, greatly enhanced its celebrity, and poured down upon it some rays of that lustre which popular opinion then assigned to 'the Great Unknown'."

A further description in the New Statistical Account reads: \xe2\x80\x9cA salubrious mineral spring eminently beneficial in cases of scrofulous disorders...and various diseases originating in impurities of the blood...The gay loungers at the watering-place came habitually to take an interest in the Games and in 1827 42 noblemen , knights and gentlemen joined in instituting an annual competition for prizes in all gymnastic exercises.\xe2\x80\x9d

And so was the proud town born. It still produces some of the finest cashmere in the world. It is also the centre of much mountain biking, with the World Championship downhill course in the nearby Elibank Forest. For those experiencing problems with their bikes or requiring any bits and pieces, there's an excellent bike shop, PROBIKESPORT on the Peebles Rd, near the Traquair turn (01896 830880).

Robert Smail\xe2\x80\x99s Printing Works in the High Street gives an interesting insight into the hamlet\xe2\x80\x99s commerical heritage. The formerly water-powered mechanical presses and typesets are still there, as are books offering a fascinating insight into the area\xe2\x80\x99s social history. Just past it is a major lade system for powering eight or more separate businesses. This was preserved for posterity by the National Trust for Scotland.

Those who like climbing hills like the next section best. The B709 (at the bottom of the High Street on the left) often sees more cyclists than cars and takes you into a truly wild and magnificent part of the Borders and Lowlands. It follows the Leithen Water for some 8km, past the golf course and up between Black Knowe and Dod Hill, where it parts company with the river. Purists will say that this is the best part of the ride, not least because they are usually masochists, but also because it affords some of the most stunning views in southern Scotland. Look across at distant Edinburgh from just beyond Longshaw Law, or back across the rolling fastness of the Borders. It is breathtaking.

Keep following the B707 until it becomes the B7007 just beyond Garvald Lodge, some 16km from Innerleithen. Go through Middleton and wind your way past the outskirts of Temple village along a brief stretch of the B6372. Watch out for the signs and take a right to Carrington Mill and continue to Carrington village. Just out of Carrington the OS map offers a diversion to the right, going towards Gorebridge. The recommended route ignores this, and heads up to Aikendean and Upper Dalhousie. 2km beyond you reach the B704. Here you have two alternatives: 1) Turn left for 2km before going right down the traffic-free path. At the end, just after crossing the A7, take a sharp right then a sharp left and follow the path around Eskbank. Or: 2) Go straight across the B704 and continue until you get to the busy A7. Here you go left for 0.5km (on the footpath, if you prefer), until the sign takes you off to the right, then first left and on to the aforementioned path around Eskbank.

The route now takes you around the centre of Dalkeith, through some fairly uninspiring conurbation. Once beyond Dalkeith, the path follows a former railway line down to Whitecraig, where you take a left then a right down to where the path goes under the A1. It follows the river Esk for 300m. Go over the footbridge and bear to the right, following the path down to the railway line, where it veers to the left. You are back with that old friend, the main East Coast line, whose presence provides an occasionally thundering backdrop to the Northumberland section.

As you emerge from the passage under the railway you will see the handsome 18th century spire of St Michael\xe2\x80\x99s Church, Inveresk. Go Ferguson Drive to the Monktonhall roundabout and straight across. 50m on it dog legs, heading left then right through some mini-soccer pitches, following a line of lop-sided pylons that look like a procession of Horatio Nelsons. The signage is shoddy, but if you stay alert you will see the red Route 1 stickers. At the end of Macklets Avenue follow the sign for Newcraighall and Niddrie, and go over the rail bridge at Musselburgh rail station. You now get a good view of Arthur\xe2\x80\x99s Seat.

24. Innerleithen		Back to
Catherine Ross		St Ronan's Hotel, High St, Innerleithen, EH44 6HF
Tel		01896 831487
Mob		07769 632002
Web		www.stronanshotel.co.uk
Email		stronanshotel@hotmail.co.uk
Rooms		4D, 2T, 2F
B&B		£25-£35
Packed Lunch		£3.95
Evening meal		On request - book when booking room

Comfortable, friendly family owned hotel catering for all visitors. Safe, dry storage for bikes. Real ales and food available if ordered when booking. Large beer garden.

Patrick & Linda		Corner House Hotel, 1 Chapel St, Innerleithen, EH44 6HN
Tel		01896 831181
Fax		01896 830086
Email		thecornerhousehotel@hotmail.cp,
Rooms		4F, 2D/S, 2T/S
B&B		£30
Packed Lunch		from £4
Evening meal		£7-£15
VisitScotland 3 star, AA 3 star		Food: RAC 1 rosette, VS award for healthy cuisine

Wonderful friendly atmosphere. Free washing machine and drying room, special requirements catered for. All rooms are en-suite. No extra charge for single occupancy. TV, tea and coffee facilities.