Embleton & Embleton Bay to Seahouses

To get back on the route (from Craster), go up the hill and turn right, passing the caravan park at Proctor's Stead. Here you take another right down to Dunstan Square, where a 2.5km track takes you across to Dunstan Steads. Take time to admire the great view of the castle to your right. Once at the Steads, go left to Embleton. A kilometre or so beyond the village you get to the B1340. Here, there is a choice: left past Christon Bank, Preston, Chathill, West Fleetham and meander all the way to Bamburgh via North Sunderland, or right. This takes you down to a T-junction, where you can go left and proceed northwards (NB don't go right down the B1339 as this would take you full circle back to Embleton). Or go straight on down the lane that leads to High Newton-by-the-Sea.

When you get to High Newton, carry on until the road bears round to the right for Low Newton. This is basically a three-sided square (Embleton Bay provides the fourth) comprising Georgian period dwellings and the Ship Inn. Back on the B1340, head northwards towards Swinhoe (right if coming back from Newton, left if coming from Christon Bank). At Swinhoe, hang a right to Beadnell.

This traditional fishing village is well worth the detour, especially to watch the sun setting over the the water. You may wonder how this can be, given that the sun normally sets in the west and you are travelling along the east coast! However Beadnell Harbour is on a south-facing peninsula, so you can look west across the water with spectacular results; indeed, it is the only harbour on England's east coast to face west. There are also 18th century lime kilns near the dunes.

Beadnell is in the heart of Northumberland's `Secret Kingdom'. It has been designated an area of outstanding natural beauty (AONB), and makes and interesting diversion for those with an interest in beachcombing and trompe l'oeil sunsets.

9. Embleton		Back to
Mick Townsend		Dunstanburgh Castle Hotel, Embleton, Alnwick, N'land NE66 3UN
Tel		01665 576111
Web		www.dunstanburghcastlehotel.co.uk
Email		stay@dunstanburghcastlehotel.co.uk
Evening meal		£7.50-£15.95
Rooms		2S, 16T/D, 3F
B&B		£40
Packed lunch		from £5.95
AA 2 star		Security for bikes and drying facilities

Extraordinarily good value for a comfortable country house hotel in one of the most scenic sections of the route in the lovely village of Embleton. There are 21 rooms including converted barns. Discounts available to the self-propelled. Proprietors have toured extensively by bicycle through Asia and South-East Asia so are receptive to the needs of the saddle-weary.

Alex Douglas		The Sportsman, Sea Lane, Embleton, Alnwick, NE66 3XF
Tel		01665 576588
Web		www.sportsmanhotel.co.uk
Email		stay@sportsmanhotel.co.uk
Rooms		10 room with following possibilities: 3F, 4T, 7D, 1S, 1 suite (all E-S)
B&B		£42-£59
EM		from £3.50 (soup) to £24 (lobster)
Packed lunch		£4.95-£6.95
VisitBritain		3 stars

Great location and fast gaining a reputation for its fine and simple use of local produce, from game to lobster, crabs and langoustines. Good wine list chosen by the owner. Good write ups in local and national press and craster kippers get you off to a flying start. Alex Douglas is keen to make this a regular cycle hub again. Secure lock ups and most rooms have sea views.

Christine & Hannah Forsyth		The Ship Inn, High Newton-by-the-Sea
Tel		01665 576262
Email		forsythchristine@hotmail.com
Rooms		Self-catering flat 1D + 1 sofa bed
Cost		£70 - minimum 3 nights. Ideal for couple

At the Northern tip of Embleton Bay, the Ship dates from 1790 and is just metres from the sea, serves real ale and great food. It is part of the National Trust-owned village square and is car-free and, what's more, it is in the Good Beer Guide. Evening meals, using great local seafood (everything is locally sourced and Christine and Hannah are splendid chefs) is a must, but make sure you book. Coffee etc is Fair Trade. Microbrewery opening at beginning of February.