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COCKERMOUTH This is one of the most attractive towns in the North West and is one of only two places in the Lake District to be designated a 'Gem Town' by the Department of the Environment, some 40 years ago. That means it is protected and will, in essence, remain the same in perpetuity. It lies just outside the boundary of the Lake District National Park and perhaps for this reason is not inundated with tourists and all the tackiness that often goes with the industry.
This market town developed at the confluence of two great salmon rivers - the Cocker, which flows out of lakes Buttermere, Crummock and Loweswater - and the Derwent, which runs into and out of lakes Derwent and Bassenthwaite to join the sea at Workington. Cockermouth received its Market Charter in 1221, and has retained its importance as a market town ever since. Quarrying and mining for lead and iron were later developments outside the town, and a brewery has been built at the foot of the castle mound, where the two rivers meet. It has long held a fascination for writers, poets and artists and is the birthplace of William and Dorothy Wordsworth. One of the finest buildings in Cockermouth is Wordsworth House, the Lakeland poet's family home, now in the care of the National Trust. The great architectural guru Sir Nikolaus Pevsner in his `Buildings of England', described the place as `quite a swagger house for such a town'. Built in 1745 for the then High Sheriff of Cumberland, Joshua Lucock, it was bought in 1761 by Sir James Lowther, son of Sir John, who built Whitehaven and its port. John Wordsworth, the poet's father, moved to Cockermouth as agent to Sir James in 1764, and in 1766 married and moved into what is now known as Wordsworth House. Here four sons and a daughter were born. Their mother died when William was eight, and he went to live with relations in Penrith. The house thrived as a private residence until 1937, when it was put on the market. A prime location in the centre of town, bosses of the local bus company saw their chance and snapped it up. It was the natural spot for a new bus station, so they applied for - and got - planning permission to bulldoze it. However there was such a national outcry that sufficient funds were raised from far and wide for the town to buy it back. It was promptly handed over to the National Trust repetition. The old kitchen and housekeeper's room now serve as a café/restaurant where you can get morning coffee, light lunches and atternoon tea. Two other famous locals came from Eaglesfield, a mile from the town's centre, were born within two years of each other: Fletcher Christian, the man who led the mutiny on `The Bounty' was born in 1764, and attended the same school as Wordsworth; and two years later John Dalton, who was one of the most brilliant scientists of his age, and was the originator of the atomic theory. Cockermouth Castle was built in the 13th century, but little of that remains because of the efforts of Robert the Bruce. The majority of today's ruins date from 1360 to 1370. Tourist Information Centre is at the Town Hall, Market Place, Cockermouth, CA13 9NP (Tel: 01900 822634). PLACES OF INTEREST The Museum of Printing (01900 824984) has a varied and fascinating range of printing presses brought together from all over Britain. Castlegate House (01900 822149) contemporary art exhibitions. The Toy and Model Museum: mainly British toys from 1900 onwards. Jennings Brewery offers 1.5 hour tours around the Brewery, explaining the various processes involved in brewing traditional beer. The Bitter End is the first pub in Cumbria to have its own working brewery - `Cumbria's Smallest Brewery'. Lakeland Sheep and Wool Centre at the nearby roundabout on the A66, is where you can meet Cumbria's most famous residents. Western Lake District Visitor Centre - all about the area. It is also a hotel (see entry) WHERE TO EAT Beatfords Country Restaurant, 7 Lowther Went. 01900 827099 Cheers Bistro, 22, Main St. 01900 822109 Junipers Restaurant & Cafe Bar, 11 South St. 01900 822892 Norham Coffee House & Restaurant, 73 Main St. 01900 824330 Oscar's Bistro, 18-20 Market Place. 01900 823654 Nikki's Italian Restaurant & Bistro, 7 Old Kings Arms Lane. 01900 821223 Quince & Medlar, 13 Castlegate. 01900 823579. Fine food vegetarian. Taste of India, 4-5 Headford Court, Main St. 01900 827844 The Bitter End Brew Pub, 15 Kirkgate. 01900 828993. Excellent value, great beer and great food. Lee's Chinese Takeaway and Fish and Chips, 47 Main St. 01900 827770 |
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